Sand crabs are possibly the most iconic of all beach critters, after factoring in the childhood rite of passage gained by digging them for the first time – and all too often bucketing a bunch to take home. Big mistake, kid. I know, still recalling the trauma and smell after a few days of keeping them as pets. Why I thought they might like eating little pieces of hot dog is beyond me.

Known in science circles by their genus, Emerita, they are commonly called (outside New Jersey) mole crabs, for obvious…