So far, this is turning out to be one hell of a holiday season. It sounds like most every surfer around had a similar T-Day sequence.
Thanksgiving Eve is a pretty traditional party night. All the bars are packed. The last of our party guests left or passed out on the couch by 1:30 a.m., which meant about three hours of sleep before the early surf check. My first feast of the day lasted three hours and included a bunch of big drops, a few pitching lips and half a dozen coldwater beatings.
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