The older they get, the better they were. You likely know a few guys who fit that bill on this Island. I find this especially true of surfers from the ’70s who rode that long, hazy wave into the ’80s. Somehow, in transitioning from those soul-soaked weed days of singlefins and free thinking to the neon mess of the early thruster era, those guys were the best surfers there ever were … according to them. Or maybe it was all that cocaine with bikini models that we always read about?

I kid. A lot of those guys are some of my favorite folks to share waves with around here and have the greatest ability…