When I was little, some mornings I would be up early at my family’s cottage in Barnegat Light, and my grandmother, who bought it in 1937 for $800, would take me with her on errands. Stop at the post office and check the P.O. box. Then go into the Inlet Deli to get my still-sleeping grandfather’s newspapers and jelly doughnuts. “Good morning, Mrs. Platten,” would say the bald man with the mustache draped over a smile inside the store.