Is that white tuna sushi you ordered really tuna or is it escolar, banned in Japan and known as the ex-lax fish for its digestive effect? Would you feel guilty ordering Patagonian toothfish? What if you knew it had been renamed Chilean sea bass? These are some of the interesting (frightening?) facts that await you in The Perfect Protein (Andy Sharpless and Suzannah Evans, Rodale Press) – a boring title for a fascinating book.

Sharpless is the CEO of Oceana, “the world’s largest conservation organization solely dedicated to protecting the oceans” – sort of a Sierra Club of the high seas.