Several years ago, I wrote a column titled “The Tastiest Fish.” I rated the best fish for the dinner table, which was a dangerous undertaking. I incurred the wrath of a few readers who told me I probably don’t know anything about cooking fish and my taste buds had gone south. I also received a bunch of new recipes and now I realize it’s time to update my ratings. This time I’m also recognizing oysters, because I sometimes like oysters better than fish.

My oyster fetish probably started at a Florida Keys restaurant several decades ago.