Dec. 11, 2022: Guadeloupe. French. Known for its cuisine. Marsia. American. Known for her extreme sweating. The kids and I, minus the sleeping husband, decide to disembark and explore. I stop at an ATM for some euros and almost end up buying a car. The angry man jangling keys at me is not appeased by my pidgin French. 

He shakes his fist as we scurry to the open-air market across the street. Even a fistful of euros doesn’t tempt me to buy the spices, murky bottles of hot sauce and homemade rum…