“I caught two waves. So, for the wave riding aspect it was a D-minus when you factor in the performance level, which consisted of tripping on my leash, riding it out on my knees and a belly ride on a fat hump of whitewater that broke to the beach. It was one of very few big enough to break through the tide. Otherwise, very high stoke numbers due to the following: nobody witnessed the above-described abysmal rusted tin man episode (at least nobody who knew me).
Jack Ryan, Surf City. summer, 2010. (Photo by Jonathan Hoover)
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